Made In Italy: No, We Insist

Ciao, craftsmanship: step inside our world of high-quality everything

 

Crafted by Italian Hands

The artistry of the Italian shoemaking process thrives on a rich legacy of skill, an unwavering pursuit of quality, and a commitment to delivering footwear that encapsulates both tradition and modern luxury––and we wouldn’t have it any other way. Claudia Ciuti, one-half of the Italian shoe manufacturing team behind TFR, speaks of the distinction, “Made in Italy,” with pride. However, she suggests a more fitting phrase would be "Made by Italians." She believes that the rich history, knowledge, and skill Italian artisans bring to the creation of shoes is something truly unique. “It's in the creativity poured into the design,” Claudia emphasizes. “The intention behind every manufacturing step, the passion in choosing the materials, and the meticulous attention to detail that sets Italian craftsmanship above the rest.”

Claudia and her partner, Roberto Angiolucci, both come from high-profile shoemaking families in the Tuscan region of Italy. Their heritage grants them invaluable insight into a shoe's anatomy––the art of crafting heels, adjusting lasts, shaping patterns, and selecting the finest materials. After years of designing for and managing their own brand collection, they started their footwear consulting business in the U.S., where they collaborate with brands and support them through the design and production process in Italy. 

Engineered with Italian Precision––and Why It Matters

Every detail of TFR is intentional and discerning. Because you are, too. Similarly, the intention behind Italian shoe manufacturing is deliberate and precise. Each shoe is a result of careful planning, incorporating various construction options to deliver the desired qualities, whether that be comfort, versatility, elegance, or a combination of many attributes. 

“As we envisioned crafting TFR shoes,” says Claudia, “we knew that each pair needed to support the wearer in their everyday lives. This allowed us to focus on specific techniques that are known for providing comfort, flexibility, and durability such as Sacchetto, Bologna, and Goodyear Welt constructions.”

Italian artisans don’t just bring skill and knowledge to the process of construction, they bring an unmatched aesthetic and dedicated consideration to their selection of materials. The reason Italian leather is renowned worldwide is because of its exceptional quality and unique characteristics: Not only is it known for its beauty and durability, but its softness and pliability are medically best for your feet. Tanning, which transforms raw hides into a durable material, is what makes Italian leather feel so luxurious, and Italy boasts a long history that spans centuries. Tanneries, the big three global centers residing in the Tuscany, Lombardy, and Campania regions, have perfected traditional methods while also embracing modern techniques. The result: leather that is high-quality, luxurious, and durable.

Embracing Tradition and Innovation

In Italy, shoemaking is traditionally a family business rooted in generations of expertise and heritage. This legacy of familial craftsmanship is reflected in the blending of different generations within the shoe factories and supplier networks: The older generation preserves valuable traditions, techniques, and knowledge; conversely, the younger generation brings a new perspective and excels in technology adoption and application, enabling advancements in shoemaking. “I think when the collaboration between the old generation and new generation happens, magic happens. The collaboration and sharing of capabilities are key to making a better product overall,” said Claudia.

This balance between age-old practices and modern advancements is a hallmark of Italian artistry. Uncoincidentally, the harmony between timeless tradition and innovation is a defining aspect of TFR shoes. That’s why choosing the right suppliers and materials is central to our commitment to excellence. It was important that our local partnerships not only reflect a deep connection to tradition and quality but also dedication to adopting the latest sustainable practices. 

“We chose to work with a small factory that calls the Tuscan region home,” explains Claudia. “We live our life in this area. It’s the air we breathe. So, everybody is extremely sensitive to protecting its condition by prioritizing sustainable practices.” Practices like chrome-free leather production illustrate a commitment to reducing environmental impact and embracing sustainability. 

Making the TFR Shoe

The creative journey of designing a TFR shoe is a meticulously planned process that marries innovation, artistry, and collaboration, and it all starts with an idea on a piece of paper. “I always prefer to sketch the idea freehand first,” says Claudia, “as it allows you to design free of any borders with unrestrained creativity and avoid the constraints of predetermined formats.” The concept then evolves into a comprehensive plan encompassing every crucial element, from construction techniques to heel design and the sole's composition. This stage carefully considers each shoe's distinct requirements––traction, comfort, and even foam placement––tailored to its purpose.

 

Original KATHARINE loafer sketch by Claudia Ciuti

 

Next, this comprehensive vision is translated to the factory. Communication with the right manufacturer is key. It must be someone who understands the goal and desired qualities and has the expertise to match those needs. Once the initial prototype is produced, we refine based on wearer feedback. Prototypes are never perfect from the start; they're meant to be improved. Sometimes it takes multiple iterations to get it right. This stage is not merely about the shoe's appearance but also its tactile experience and fit, a vital aspect for TFR.

During this process, we also focus on the shoe's insole. Its design significantly impacts comfort and performance, and for TFR, those attributes are paramount. This is where the collaboration gets exciting. Designers responsible for different facets of the shoe, including the insole, goes to TFR’s insole designer, who has a background in sneaker design. 

“When I’ve approached a project for a sneaker in the past,” Claudia explains, “it's been primarily from an aesthetic point of view, with a focus on the outer appearance. The focus for TFR was on creating an insole that could seamlessly marry the comfort of a sneaker with the luxurious appearance of an Italian leather shoe. This was a new concept that required us to blend what are typically different shoe making techniques and to take an ‘inside-out’ approach. The iterative process of prototyping, learning from those prototypes, and making necessary modifications allowed us to learn a lot and adapt the shape of the insole to fit seamlessly in the shoe, achieving the desired results without sacrificing quality.”

Finally, we’re ready to choose colors and materials. TFR’s core color palette includes timeless shades that can be worn across seasons and occasions, but we also like to have a little fun, so you can expect some color surprises along the way. Material selections for the outsole (the outermost part of the shoe) include rich nappa leather. And in true Italian fashion, we’ve also incorporated modern materials into our design, using Italian Alcantara fabric to line the insole. Alcantara is a sustainable material that combines aesthetics and performance. With its luxurious appearance and suede-like texture, it provides both a vegan-friendly and durable solution, while also boasting excellent sweat-wicking properties.

Finally, through this carefully orchestrated process, TFR shoes come to life, embodying the fusion of creativity and precision that defines Italian craftsmanship. The result is a pair of shoes that not only reflects timeless elegance but also the heart and soul of Italian shoemaking tradition. Now the rest is up to you.