Designing Katharine

It took three years, 9 iterations, and a team of designers and foot specialists, but we did it and we couldn’t be prouder.

 

Our founder, Tori, got her first pair of loafers in high school: Bass “weejun” penny loafers. (She even kept dimes in the cut out slots because that’s how much a phone call cost at the time.) They’ve been a wardrobe staple ever since, and with this, it was destined that the first shoe in the TFR collection would be a loafer.

We were inspired by luxury innovation, from Porsche to the bullet train, and set out to develop a shoe that was sleek on the outside and high-performing on the inside. Sneaker culture and the post-pandemic desire for comfort make the loafer the perfect comfortable, luxury footwear choice. You’ve probably noticed the trend (particularly among men) of pairing a tailored business outfit with sneakers. This look––which makes sense from a comfort perspective––can be hard to pull off for some women. Many have tried, few can make it work. (Our founder considers herself in this category). The loafer is our solution to sneaker comfort but with a polished, elevated look. 

 

 The original moodboard for Katharine

 

Designing The Katharine

Our first iteration of the loafer was actually a mule. We liked it, but the mule silhouette wasn’t timeless enough for our inaugural shoe. We went back to the literal drawing board with Claudia, our design and manufacturing consultant, who sketched our current closed-back design. Its sleek, timeless silhouette is feminine, sporty, functional, and comfortable.

 

 First Katharine prototype in mule silhouette

 

Final Katharine sketch

Next, with our design team of experts in form, function, and manufacturing, we decided on these design elements for Katharine:

• Toe shape with the right balance between square and round for a sleek look that elongates the leg
• Piping details in complementary nappa
• Vamp shape provides a feminine silhouette
• 20mm exterior heel made of stacked leather, although the actual heel height with the insole is 40mm
• Elastic gussets that move with your feet
• Wide toe box to keep toes from crowding
• Suede heel lining and achilles pad for comfort and stability

Prototyping: From 2D to 3D

Once we had a mock of the silhouette and design features, Claudia turned these into drawings with precise measurements that she could provide to the factory. She also discussed the construction technique necessary to achieve the quality and aesthetic. For the Katharine, we first selected Bologna sachetto construction. The factory puts into motion the physical prototype, creating the last (the physical form used to shape the shoes), developing patterns for the uppers, and selecting partners to make the sole.

The hardest part of the development was integrating a modern insole into classic construction. We learned quickly that we needed every millimeter of space inside the shoe and revised the construction method to a "typical" cemented insole - although nothing about this shoe is typical!!

Podiatrist-Tested and Approved

Once we had the form, we needed to ensure proper function. TFR's team podiatrist, Dr. Terri, tested the prototypes with her patients, even taking x-rays of patients in the shoes so that we could see the fit in detail. Her detailed measurements and wear-testing feedback was critical in the development process to get the fit right. We used the Katharine to prototype the last and Power Sole development, too, as it has the most comprehensive fit needs and could be applied to other styles. This process of prototyping and wear-testing took over three years and 9 different iterations to get right.

 

 

The evolution of Katharine in 9 prototypes, top and bottom views

 

Colorways and Material Selection

Finally: the fun part. We selected nappa leather from Sicerp and Enterprise tanneries for their quality, texture, and colorways selection. We wanted an approach to colorways that would be both timeless and efficient, meaning we chose “blended” colors that could be worn with multiple color families so as to maximize the return on your investment.

The Five Colorways of Katharine:

• Nero: a matte black
• Midnight: darkest navy that pairs with black or blue
• Caramel: medium brown 
• Taupe: perfect blend of brown and gray
• Bronze metallic: a balance of brown, gray and gold in textured nappa

Naming the Shoe

The final step in the process was giving the shoe a name worthy of its design and functionality. All TFR shoes are named after trailblazing women who broke through barriers, giving the rest of us a path to follow and allowing us to see ourselves in places we might have thought impossible. Katharine is named after Katharine Graham, the first female CEO of a Fortune 500 company.

Making the Katharine was an exercise in perseverance. We had a vision of what we wanted her to be and never gave up on that vision until we had it right. We hope you love her as much as we do.

 

SHOP KATHARINE